Estate Smoke Consumer Hot Blast

Estate Railroad stoves, for caboose, station and railway mail car heating, have been adopted as standard by over sixty railroad companies in the United States and Canada.

The Santa Fe has over 6,000 Estate Railroad Stoves in use.

The New york Central Lines have over 4,000 Estate Railroad Stoves in use.

The Erie, the Soo Line, the Pennsylvania Lines, the Northern Pacific, the Union Pacific are all big users.

Before Estate Railroad stoves were introduced, practically all of these roads were using a heater of the old-fashioned "cannon" type, either making it in the own shops or buying the castings from a jobbing foundry. Not because that type of heater had anything in particular to recommend it, but because it was plain and cheap, and because nothing better for the purpose had been offered.

The Estate Stove Company was the first stove manufacturer to realize the importance of proper cooking and heating equipment in railroad service, and to build a line of stoves designed to afford the maximum economy, convenience and safety.

The Estate Railroad Stove is made of the same high-grade materials and with the same careful attention to details of fitting that go into the production of the finest parlor stove in our lone. It is a scientifically designed, well-built stove, air-tight in the full sense of the word, extremely economical of fuel, perfect in its fire control.

Being built for business, there are no frills or furbelows, no fancy carving, no nickel trimmings. It is simply thoroughly a high-grade, sir-tight heater, with the addition of features which insure maximum economy, convenience and safety in railroad service, Because its unique features are patented, the Estate Railroad Stove is practically without competition.

The Safety Features
A violent bump or jar, to say nothing of a wreck, causes the ordinary stove to open and sill its contents, a fire often results.

In the Estate Railroad Stove this danger is entirely overcome. Each door and each cover is held shut with a locking device, so that they cannot open under even the most severe strain.


Unusual Fire-Keeping Qualities
"Will it hold a fire overnight?" is usually the test of a good stove. Estate Railroad stoves will not only hold fire over night, but for a much longer period. In a number of scientific tests, fire has been held for longer than fifty hours in stoves that have seen more than ten years of use.

Coal Bills Reduced 33 to 50%
The ordinary "cannon" stove used by railroads us ab extravagant user of fuel, becomes red-hot soon after heating up, and is practically impossible to control. This is because such stoves are not air-tight, Air enters the fire through a dozen cracks and crevices, and flows uncontrolled through the firepot.

The Estate Railroad Stove is made air-tight and stays air-tight. The ash box is cast in one piece - an exclusive, patented feature of Estate construction, and all necessary joints are so carefully fitted that air cannot gain admission into the stove except through the screw-draft registers in the ash-pit door.

Complete and Convenient Cooking Facilities
"An army fights on its stomach," said Napoleon. And it's just as true that a train crew works on its stomach. Hot meals on the road are essential to the health and efficiency of train crews.

The Estate Railroad is a good cook stove as well as a good heater. It has a large two-hole cooking top with a flanged edge. A portable broiling attachment is also furnished.

A pot rail, to keep vessels from falling off the stove in case of a severe bump or jolt, is furnished as extra.

Anchor Rods
Heavy rods anchor the heater firmly to the floor of a caboose can be used, holes for these rods being located the the right and left sides of the undertop and extreme bottom of the stove.

Estate RailRoad Stove Nos. 140-180
Caboose Type
Used regularly by the Santa Fe, Rock Island, C & N. W., New York Central Lines and others.

Below illustration shows the No. 140 Stove. No. 180 has extension top and three screw draft registers in the ash-box door.

The pot rail shown in this photograph is furnished as an extra on Estate Railroad Stoves Nos. 140, 180, 145, 185, and 149.

It consists of two cast-iron ends, bolted to the top of the stove and joined with 3/8th inch wrought iron pipe.

All of the stoves are made with a flanged edge on the cooking top designed to keep vessels from slipping off. The pot rail, however, makes assurance doubly sure.

The broiling attachment shown in this photograph is part of the regular equipment of Nos. 140 and 180 Caboose Type Estate Railroad Stoves.

No Stronger argument in favor of Estate Railroad Stoves could be presented than the letters we receive - almost every day during the season - from conductors and brakemen who are in intimate, daily contact with our stoves in stations and cabooses.

"Estate Stoves heat up good,' they say; "Make cooking a pleasure;" "Burn less fuel;" "Hold fire longer;" "Prevent fires;" etc. And almost every letter winds up by saying that the Estate Stove has proved so satisfactory for use in stations that the writer now wants one for use in his home.

"Will it keep fire over night?" is the first question to ask in determining the fitness of heating stove equipment.

If the stove in your waiting rooms will not keep fire over night, you may be sure that they are wasting fuel and wasting the time of your employees.

Estate Railroad Stoves will not only keep fire over night, but for a much longer period. In a number of scientific tests we have held fire for longer than 50 hours in stoves that had been in service longer than 10 years.

The installation of Estate Railroad Stoves in your stations and cabooses will be a good investment, not only from the standpoint of fuel saving and low upkeep cost, but as welfare work which will pay big dividends in the increased comfort and efficiency of your train crews.

All the comforts of home on the road is the privilege of trainmen on the U.P., whose cabooses are equipped with these stoves.

Hot biscuits, baked potatoes - every kind of baked or roasted food - is easily and quickly prepared in the big, handy bake oven.

Estate Railroad Stove
No. 149
Low Caboose Type
Used regularly by the Erie, Pennsylvania Lines West of Pittsburgh, New York Central Lines and others.

Connecting a Wood Stove, (PLUS GOOD CHIMNEY CONSTRUCTION AND SAFETY RULES)

Ofttimes, fashions that once seemed dated or even eccentric have a way of surfacing when they satisfy either whim or necessity. Such is the case for the wood stove today.

Dictated by economics, concern for supplies of fossil fuels, and nostalgia-heating with a wood-stove has once again sprung into the public consciousness if only as a supplement for one's present heating system or to have as a standby in case of power failure, repeated fuel crises, or steeply rising costs.

For years the Franklin, potbelly, and box were the principal types of home heating stoves available. Some were beautifully simple; others were embellished with every possible type of ornamentation. Carefully tended and maintained, these have lasted for many years and many bear the labels of manufacturers long since passed into oblivion when central heating became fashionable and convenient. Some of the more recently made stoves will be fortunate if they see several seasons of use because they have been hastily designed, poorly constructed, and are made of metal that is questionable in its quality and thickness. Their only justification is their low price.

Both can be depreciated for as long as they are functioning efficiently. Often the more you spend at this stage to assure safety, the greater the result in savings-possibly including your house and health.

After you have decided on the stove to fit your needs, the next step is to see how it should to be vented. All solid fuel stoves must be connected to a chimney or flue to transport the smoke and gases outdoors. The prudent householder will see that this is done in accordance with safety standards cited by stove manufacturers, local fire and building ordinances, and the recommendations of the National Fire Protection Association.

Existing chimneys can often be used to vent a new stove. However, certain precautions must be taken first. Check the condition of the chimney. This can be done by the homeowner visually or by the local fire department. Look for stains on the masonry (these may indicate smoke leaks from former years), and loose or cracked mortar (a possible avenue for sparks that could destroy your house).

Any defects should be properly repaired. Clay mortar was commonly used in unlined chimneys built more than seventy-five years ago. It is questionable whether any of these meet present day safety standards, but the customary sight of smoke rising from a two-hundred-year-old chimney that has not been rebuilt or modernized attests to their continued use.

If the condition of an old chimney dictates it, you can hire a mason to rebuild it or at least insert flue linings in it. This will be a major undertaking and expense. Otherwise, chimneys can be lined with metal linings that are made to specification. Some homeowners have installed sections of regular stovepipe-fastened securely with machine bolts-by inserting them down the chimney to the stove collection.

Chimney tile-mortared together smoothly-or metal liners discourage the accumulation of creosote, which is one of the byproducts of burning wood-particularly pine, cedar, and green woods-and which may ignite and cause chimney fires. (There are chemicals available that can be burned on the fire to discourage creosote accumulation. A safer way is to clean your chimney each year before the real stove season starts. Do this by wrapping chains in a burlap bag, tying a rope around its neck, and raising and lowering it against the insides of the chimney walls. Be sure you have blocked the hearth and flue openings before you begin. This will prevent soot from permeating the house.) Soot and creosote will be less likely to accumulate if you burn a fire continuously. These byproducts are usually consumed satisfactorily but a visual inspection should be made.

If you use an existing flue for your wood stove, it should not be the same as that which is used for either the central heating vent or a working fireplace. Gases can be drawn downward and into the house while you sleep. For safety, therefore, you will have to make a list of priorities. Even if you decide to vent the stove through the over mantel of the fireplace, you will be giving up the use of the hearth as many did in the early days of "modernization" when wood stoves became fashionable and known to be safer and more efficient than fireplace fires. (Even the best fireplaces-while cozy and heartwarming- are only about 10 percent to 20 percent efficient in their conversion of wood to heat; stoves are from 30 percent to more than 80 percent in the case of some of the Scandinavian imports.)

Should you not have a chimney at all through which to vent a stove, or if blocking off an existing fireplace or even using it safely without extensive renovation is considered either hazardous or unwise, you can beat the problem by installing a new chimney altogether. This can either be constructed of masonry (brick, stone, composition blocks), which would call for the services of a mason and the resulting cost and bother, or a metal, prebuilt chimney. Never try to avoid the expense by venting your stovepipe through a window sash. This merely courts disaster.

Masonry chimneys start from below frost level on a poured concrete foundation and are built up; factory built metal chimneys, long known in the midwest and introduced here principally for second homes after World War Two, are supported from the roof and hang down. Money, time, and labor are saved by installing a prebuilt chimney. Several nationally known companies manufacture them and provide specific instructions for installing them. These can be followed accurately by anyone with a feeling for tools and the ability to read directions.



Chimneys can be built either inside a house or made to run up an outside wall. The advantage of housing the flue within a building is that of added choice of where to place the stove and more-even stovepipe temperatures. Unless the prebuilt chimney is inspected periodically during the heating season, the greatest disadvantage is that it brings the possibility of an unleashed fire closer. Whatever kind of chimney you decide to install, make sure to observe the following points:

1. Stoves are heavy. Before bringing one into the house, check the underpinnings of the floor and strengthen them if necessary.

2. Wood stoves are radiant heaters. They must be kept at recommended distances from all combustible materials. Wood, wallpaper, many kinds of fabric, most kinds of paint, furniture, and even the woodpile itself are all potential fire hazards. A freestanding stove must be 36 inches from the nearest combustible material on 36” on both sides, front, and back. If gypsum, plaster, asbestos, stone, or brick is used for wall sheathing, most stoves can be brought to within 12 inches from the wall. Some manufacturers state that if the noncombustible wall covering is 4 inches or more thick, their product can be placed as little as 6 inches from the wall. However, use your own discretion.

3. A noncombustible hearth should be provided under the stove and extend 18 inches out from the firing door, 12 inches out on either side. This can be a piece of asbestos encased in tin and can be purchased at a hardware store. Or you can make one of marble chips, shells, crushed gravel, brick, slate, etc., that is laid on a metal or asbestos fire top cut to the proper dimensions. Stoves on legs should have 18 inches or more of open space under them.

4. Common carbon steel or galvanized stovepipe should be 18 inches from walls and ceilings. The Shakers, ever an inventive and practical people, often located their wood stoves toward the center of the room and led a well-supported stovepipe at a slight angle under the ceiling to the chimney vent. This method provides added surface for additional heating.

5. Common flues must never pass through combustible ceilings or walls unless proper precautions are taken and recommended distances observed. Double and triple walled pipe are safe to use and easy to install. Even with a good fire going in the stove, they will only feel slightly warm to the touch. Manufacturers list specifications for clearances. If you do not use this product, cut a hole in the wall or ceiling that provides 18 inches of clearance around the pipe and fill this hole with noncombustible insulating material or brickwork.

6. Factory-built chimneys should be 2 feet above the ridge of the house or 2 feet higher than any projection within 10 feet of it. These come with rain caps to prevent water from running down and extinguishing the fire. They can also be enclosed by bricks or brick like metal boxes to simulate a permanent masonry chimney.

7. It will be safe to use single walled stovepipe between sections of double-walled fittings that pass through ceilings if these are in a position to be inspected readily. However, if the chimney is inaccessible, built-in, or remote from frequent inspection, this additional means of heating a loft, for example, should not be considered. It would be better to invest in a full section or two of insulated pipe.

Even with the above points in mind as you contemplate installing a wood stove, it is still prudent to consult with your local fire department, study and follow the directions provided with the stove (if it is a new one), and request more information from the National Fire Protection Association (470 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass. 02210).

ADDITIONAL READING
FOR INSTALLING AND OPERATING A WOOD STOVE:
National Fire Protection Association, "A Hazard -Study: Using Coal and Wood
Stoves Safely," 470 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass. 02210

Havens, David, "The Woodburner's Handbook," Media House, Box 1770, Portland,
Me. 04104

Cooking on a Wood Stove - Yankke

Wood cookstoves often have more individual quirks than the cooks who use them. But successful cooking with wood begins in the woodshed. The key to a well-planned and tasty meal is the availability and selection of fuel-split, dried and stacked perhaps a year in advance.

There are innumerable advantages to cooking with one's own wood. A twenty-acre woodlot will supply a family's cooking and heating needs almost indefinitely, if culled and harvested properly. The cost of wood grown on the farm is lower than that of any other fuel. In addition, wood cookstoves continue to function when outside power sources fail. They provide auxiliary heat, and this in turn can make a kitchen thee family social center that modern efficiency has done its best to displace.

It is true that bread can be baked in any oven, but somehow the combined odors of fresh bread and a wood stove is enough to stir a pang of nostalgia in any breast.

However, before installing a wood cookstove in your kitchen-if you are fortunate enough to locate one in working order at a reasonable price-consider some of the disadvantages. Foremost is the amount of wood demanded by the cook to keep meals coming on time. If it is available and at hand, wood stove cooking is economical. But the constant cutting, dragging, splitting, stacking and carting of wood into the kitchen can be a tiresome task in a busy world and has persuaded many a farm boy to leave for the city.

In learning the art of wood stove cooking-even if one is already a capable cook using another fuel-there are bound to be disappointments until the personalities of cook and stove become compatible.

To start with, the fuel must be dry. Although any wood will burn eventually, the fire will be hotter and more easily controlled if seasoned wood is used. Green wood can provoke chimney fires.

Hereabouts, the stove wood most generally used is white or rock maple, beech, white birch, and white or red oak. Ash is a fine wood, easily split and safe to use either green or dry. In the old days, ash was used largely as kindling. It was split into 3/4-inch vertical slabs then these were worked into 3/4-inch square sticks with a hatchet. Small-diameter ash was left in the round.

Countrymen never use pine, even for kindling. This wood can coat your chimney with resin, which in turn could lead to a house burning. Pine is saved for the lumber yard.

Wood that will not split easily because of knots or grain is stacked in another area of the woodshed and eventually finds its way to the parlor stove.

In the days when the wood range was king of the kitchen, country people kept a woodbox next to it, which was filled with a mixed lot of stove-length wood by the boys before they went to bed. From this the cook would select her fuel for the purpose intended: birch for a quick, hot fire with little body; maple and beech for longer lasting dependability; oak (which takes longer to dry) for a slow, hot fire, once a bed of coals had been established. It was an unsplit oak log that was put into the firebox just before bedtime and banked with ashes. Usually the cookstove firebox was too small to hold a fire to last the night (a larger one would make it more difficult to adjust cooking temperatures), but some coals of oak would remain by early morning, which helped keep the chill out of the kitchen. During a spell of cold weather, the cookstove and parlor stoves would have to be tended periodically throughout the night to keep the water pipes from freezing.

To kindle a fire, the housewife took a piece of newspaper, tore it down the center crease, and crumpled and twisted each half separately. She laid about eight twists on the grate, lighting both ends of one of them as she put it in then loosely covered these with eight to ten ¾-inch square sticks of split ash. Within minutes her fire had started. Now according to what she was to cook, she selected fuel for her fire bed-often white birch and maple to get her chores off to a good start. (Any birch more than 2 inches in diameter should be split to dry in the shed; otherwise, the center will rot in a year's time and its usefulness will be lost. This is especially true of gray birch.)

Once the fire bed is established, the attentive cook spends her time regulating the drafts until the stove lids and oven are heated enough for her to proceed.

Most cookstoves have four different dampers. The front damper is located to the left and below the firebox. This is the primary source of draft, which allows controlled combustion. Ashes drop through the grate into the ashpit below. (It is here you can bake potatoes. Coat them with either grease or aluminum foil and turn occasionally until done.) The adjustable upper damper is called the "check." By closing the front damper and opening the check, you can cool the fire and save fuel. The regulation of the check is one way to keep a more even temperature in the oven while baking.

The stovepipe damper is the chief device for getting your fire going and, later, stopping it from burning too quickly and allowing an excessive loss of heat up the flue.

One other damper is important. This is the oven damper and is located either to the left or right of the stovepipe-depending upon the make-at the back of the stove. When this is open (as for starting a fire or cutting down the surface heat of the stove), the heat goes directly to the stovepipe; when closed, it allows heat to circulate across the top and around the oven walls before escaping through the flue. An open oven damper, therefore, spreads the heat more evenly under the surface of the lid covers.

The hottest spot on the cookstove lies between the left and center back lids in a six-lidded cookstove. When the oven damper is open, this generally shifts forward along the right ridge of the firebox. One of the great advantages of cooking on the surface of a cookstove is the cook's choice of temperature range. Results can be had instantly merely by shifting the pots backward and forward from hot to medium heat, far off to the right or left for warming or simmering. If the stove is equipped with a pair of warming ovens or movable trivets attached to the metal casing around the stovepipe, the cook has handy places to set her breads to rise, keep platters and food warm, dispel the dampness from salt, and hang dishtowels and mittens to dry.

Many cookstoves also boast a holding tank for water on the right. Not only is warm water available whenever the stove is going, but the added humidity is healthful and seems to temper the room's cold corners.

It is oven cooking that is the hardest to learn and the most challenging. The art of wood stove cooking is centered around the successful maintenance of oven temperature. Most stoves have a gauge set into the oven door. This should be treated only as an indicator of the interior temperature on most old-model stoves. Even if the needle is in working order, invest in a hanging oven thermometer if your experience as a cook demands more accuracy. However, by trial and error and without cost you can learn to assess the oven temperature-provided the proper kinds of wood are used in the firebox-by putting your hand in the oven temporarily. This should indicate to you whether the oven is warm, hot, or very hot (which essentially is what both the oven-door thermometer and old cookbooks will tell you anyway). Another method is to lay scraps of white paper in the oven and to judge its temperature according to the amount of time the paper took to turn brown and scorch. There are no written directions for this kind of experience.

From the stories of feasts in the days before electricity, there seems nothing that a wood stove oven cannot do, although it takes more careful watching than modern ovens with automatic controls. Bread should be baked in a hot oven that is allowed to cool by shutting down the front damper, the chimney damper, and cracking open the check. To assure evenness (the firebox wall of the oven is the hottest side), the loaf pans should be watched and turned occasionally. If the top crust starts to brown too quickly, lay a piece of brown paper bag over the loaf. Even a souffle-although a product of France originally and probably cooked in the more steady heat of a coal fire-can be attempted in a wood stove oven, provided the trick of maintaining a steady temperature through the selection of wood and manipulation of the dampers is learned.

Another way of using the potential of your wood stove is to take advantage of the firebox. When the wood has burned down to coals, chop them up with a poker and level the bed. Then throw on a steak or lamb chops. Sear them on both sides and cook quickly. If apple. wood has been used for the fire, the results will satisfy the most discriminating taste.

Old-fashioned baked beans-costly for the modern electric stove cook-can be prepared economically in a wood stove. Leave the pot in the oven, heated by a steady-burning red oak log, and let it fend for itself all day with an occasional addition of liquid. By dinner time the beans will be ready. Meanwhile, on the stove top start soup simmering in a cast-iron pot. Add scraps of meat and vegetables from time to time for a nourishing and convenient pot-au-feu meal.



There are several important things to bear in mind if wood stove cooking is to be both worthwhile and enjoyable. Keep a neat and orderly wood pile where dry stove wood is available as needed.
Clean out the ashpit and soot from around the oven frequently to reduce possible fire hazard and. allow the dampers and stovepipe to function efficiently. Ashes should be kept in metal buckets or ashcans
at a safe distance from the house, for wood coals have surprising longevity. If kept dry, these ashes can later be used for making lye-the first step in home soap production (see Chapter 26)-or
spread on the garden to increase the potash content. Wood ashes are not much good for sprinkling on the icy walk in winter; they find their way back into the house too quickly!

Three more points should be mentioned to increase the enjoyment of using a wood cookstove. If your children are still young enough to be malleable, train them early to the onerous daily task of keeping the woodbox filled. This is a tedious but necessary process, and its neglect may result in a trip to the woodshed for a reason other than the gathering of wood. Never use the oven as a storage closet for dirty dishes when unexpected company knocks, or for hiding valuables if you should leave the house. Human memory may not warn you to look in the oven before lighting the next fire.

Finally, if the results of cooking are to benefit both the family and the cook, clearly establish a basic rule: only the cook regulates the dampers while a meal is being prepared. Many a dish has been ruined and many a temper roused by a seemingly innocent fiddling with the drafts when the cook's back is turned. The best place for the noncook-and one of the most enviable in the house-is in the rocking chair next to the stove where one can be near enough to be warm and appreciative but not get in the way.

REFERENCE
Havens, David, "The Woodburners Handbook," Media House, Box 1770, Portland,
Me. 04104

Antique Stove Plate - a rare piece of antique stove ephemera

Yesteryear's stove industry employed many marketing techniques to sell their stoves including the use of collectible trade cards, calendars, rulers, miniature and salesman sample stoves and much more. I recently came on this unique find on Ebay: Click Here for Ebay Information


Staffordshire England
Walker & Pratt MFG of Boston Mass
Flow Blue
Plate measures 9 1/8 inches across

One Great Plate: Watermelon Soup With Crab and Wildflower Honey

Forge, the new American restaurant in the Tribeca space once occupied by Dekk, has the rustic throwback decor of an earthy cabin in the mountains: Lots of old woods dominate the space, decorated with an antique stove, butcher block tables and old cookbooks, but filtered through a glossy, youthful energy. Interesting? Proceed here.

The antique stove came from the Good Time Stove Company in Goshen, MA.

Glenwood C manufactured by the Weir Stove Company in Taunton, MA c. 1910

Professionally converted for modern fuel: electric burners and electric oven

Fully Insulated Ovens: Zero-Clearance Installation

Good Time Stove Welcomes Spring - What a Party!

On Saturday night Stove Black Richardson hosted a great party to welcome spring and acknowledge St. Patrick's Day.


Guests were many and food plentiful!

Stove Black Richardson and Grand Colleen Kathleen Kenneally


Stove Black Richardson and daughter Megan E. LaBonte (Hoop Master Sass) sports her "Not Your Mamma's Leprechaun" costume.



Stove Black Richardson and good friend Jessica.



Phyllis LaTaille provided an amazing musical accompaniment and did a great job of giving us real Irish feel we were hoping for.

The Gourd Birdhouse contest garnered more contestants than we could have imaged spanning a wide variety of genres and styles. Each more amazing and more impressive than the next.

Prizes were awarded as follows:
1. Most Bird Hospitable
2. Most Gourd-eous
3. Most Changed Since Gourd School
4. Gourds That Make You Come Hmmmm...
5. Best in Show

Below are just a few of Gourd Entries














We were sad to lose one friend early in the party - but you can see below Jessica had important puppy business to attend to - what a way to welcome in spring with a new litter!

A Sincere and Heart-felt Thanks to All Who Joined Us, in person, in spirit, or otherwise!

European Reproduction Heating Stove Uses American Franklin as Model

Below is a catalog from a European company that is manufacturing reproduction stoves.

A close examination reveals that two of the models are knocks offs of original American Antique Stoves. I have enclosed pictures so you can decided for yourself...

Dudley Wood Burning Stoves

Dudley Wood Burning Box Stove
Below are details about the Dudley Wood Burning Box Stove for Heating manufactured by the Washington Stoves and Ranges in Nashville, TN circa 1941 and distributed by the Gray & Dudley Company. Washington Stoves & Ranges was established in 1862. The materials were taken from a 1941 Catalogue #15.

These materials and photos were generously provided by Sue Conerly for your enjoyment. After researching other resources, Sue found this historical information with the assistance of Cliff Boram of the Antique Stove Information Clearinghouse in IN, phone: 574-583-6465.






Below are details about the Dudley Wood Burning Cook Stove manufactured by the Washington Stoves and Ranges in Nashville, TN circa 1941 and distributed by the Gray & Dudley Company. Washington Stoves & Ranges was established in 1862.

Atlanta #828 Challenger Wood Burning Kitchen Stove

Below are details about the Atlanta Challenger #828 Wood Burning Kitchen Cook Stove manufactured by the Atlanta Stove Works in Atlanta, GA circa 1929. These materials and photos were generously provided by Sue Conerly for your enjoyment. After researching other reseources, Sue found this historical information with the assistance of Cliff Boram of the Antique Stove Information Clearinghouse in IN, phone: 574-583-6465.

Antique Stoves are the Best Available Anywhere

We believe that antique stoves are the best available anywhere, The box stoves are constructed of cast iron, some with an enameled finish for easy cleaning and attractiveness. Above all else, a wood stove must burn efficiently to be used as a practical heater, since the cutting, stacking and carrying of large quantities of wood is so time consuming. The antique stoves are superior to any other we know of in this regard. The fire box is tight and designed to burn the wood slowly and completely. Even the hot gases are ignited in this stove rather than being lost up the chimney. Heavy cast iron baffles surround the firebox and a top baffle directs the heat into a chamber for more complete heat transfer.


We have used three sizes of these stoves at our home for many winters. Although the antique do not have the thermostatic controls or catalytic converters of other models, the antique stove us a more efficient heating stove requiring less wood and giving much more even heat.

The are models which combine the advantages of an open fireplace and an efficient wood heater. These have doors which slide over the open fire and clamp shut tightly. A vent on the door can be adjusted for efficient wood burning. Unlike the Franklin fireplace, these stoves efficient heaters.


An antique stove is a lifetime investment but it will actually pay for itself in a season or two by the quantity of wood fuel saved. The stoves are also handsome and rugged.

Beamish Museum is on the Hunt for an English Coal Stove...

So here's a tough one...

Mr. Smallman of the Beamish Museum is looking for something pretty specific. I don't have any leads on something like this so I thought I would see if this blog could help fill this unique need...



"The stove I am looking for is straight, round and in three to four sections, and stands around 4 to 4½ foot.

"It has a lid on the top, and it would be in work mans railway cabins or as this one was in a colliery workshop called the engine wrights..."

"Thanks for your help, now and in the future, who knows it just may be you that's finds my stove first...

"I miss dressing up in costume and talking to people coming into Beamish for a visit.
"Kind Regards
"Robert"

Any ideas, suggestions or leads???

The Beamish is a world famous open air museum. It tells the story of the people of North East England at two important points of their history - 1825 and 1913 .

Beamish is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the North East of England. More than 300,000 people each year visit Beamish to experience what life was really like in this great region in the early 1800s and 1900s.

What sets Beamish apart from traditional museums is that objects are shown, not in glass cases, but in context. Whole buildings have been dismantled, brought to Beamish, rebuilt and furnished as they once were. But most importantly, costumed staff are on hand to bring the past alive.