Favorite Base Burner Stoves - The Finest Heating Stove in the Wprld

Favorite BASE BURNERS

The highest order of workmanship and materials are used in the manufacturing of Favorite Base Burners.The Favorite manufacturers are pioneers in flue construction and increasing heating capacity of Base Burners. Favorite craftsmen used skill, originality and science in constructing the Base Burner. This construction makes the largest circulating flue capacity ever built into a heating stove – and the hottest. The Favorite Base Burner is a beautiful stove with exquisite decoration and ornamentation. The Favorite Base Burner was one of the most economical and powerful heating stoves of the day. It had the greatest sale of any heating stove manufactured at the time, because it brought comfort and satisfaction into the home and saved folks up to one half the cost on fuel bills. A Favorite Base Burner features the most amount of surface space radiating heat into the room, which provides great heating efficiency at the minimum cost of fuel. The Favorite is the only Base Burner with a three flue construction, a series of three flues on the back and on the bottom, which allows for the most amount of heat to radiate into the room. An original feature of a Favorite Base Burner is the separation of the bottom flues from the main body of the stove. This separation provides more square inches of hot surface bared to the air, and allows for more space for the ash pan. The Favorite Base Burner not only has more radiating surface, it is also more carefully and tighty fitted. Favorite manufacturers constructed patented planing machines, the only kind in use by stove manufacturers at the time, to make the stove parts to fit perfectly true and tight. The perfect fitting enables the Favorite Base Burner to produce an even, equal temperature throughout the house. With a perfect fitting, control of the draft allows for a swift heat up or cool down as desired. The Favorite Stove Company’s thorough inspection insures that every single Base Burner manufactured is guaranteed to be absolutely paper tight. The Favorite Base Burner features a deep fire pot that insures perfect combustion and does not crack. An ample sized space for the ash pan ensures that the draft from the register is free to flow. Bottom flues where built into Favorite Base Burners so that the floor region could be heated more completely. The doors, registers and mica frames on the Favorite Base Burner are fitted paper tight. The Favorite Base Burner features a valuable tea-kettle arrangement and a one piece, perfectly constructed elbow that does not clink and prevents the accumulation of ashes on the outside. The Favorite craftsmen use a special polish and burnish, which makes the beautiful carved ground work in the nickeling glitter as brilliantly as the smooth nickel. All the nickel parts, the foot rail, hearth and jacket, lift on and off without bolts so that the nickel parts can be easily cleaned and replaced. The four nickel wings found on every Favorite Base Burner aid in the circulation and output of heat into the room.

Model Ranges - A Catalog from the Barstow Stove Company

The following is a stove catalog from the Barstow Stove Company, circa 1915. Founded in 1836 by Amos Chaffee Barstow in Providence, RI, the Barstow Stove Company manufactured fifty different kinds of stoves. The original Barstow building still stands in Providence, RI.


This catalog features Barstow’s Model Ranges - both wood heated ranges and gas/wood combination ranges. Every single Barstow range features a kick pedal that opens the oven door with, as stated in the catalog, a “slight pressure from the foot.”


Click Here to Read the Entire Catalog

Ways of Putting Hot Air Where People Are

Ways of Putting Heated Air Where People Are

by Irwin L. Goodchild
24 September 2007

The most common ways of heating air are by passing it by hot pipes, baseboard heaters, convectors, or so-called radiators. In each case the air being heated becomes lighter and slowly rises naturally to the ceiling.

The heated air then fills the top of a room. It does not descend to where people are until it cools and is replaced by more warmer air. As can be seen this is a slow way of moving heated air to where people are. In addition this way places the warmest air where it is most likely to lose heat through the ceiling and the surrounding upper walls.

Now, there are two ways to move the warm air at the ceiling more quickly down to where people are. One way is to have a forced hot air system and the other is to have a ceiling fan. The drawback to each of these ways is that the warmest air is still going to the ceiling first. It just does not stay there as long.

But note that there is a still better way to get the warmed air to people. That is to have a fan blow it horizontally toward the area where people are, — one to three feet above the floor. It does this most quickly and most cheaply with fan forced warm air.

Fan Forced Warm Air
There are several ways for fans to be used to blow warmed air horizontally one to three feet above the floor. The simplest, easiest, and cheapest would be for homeowners with forced hot air systems. They have only to buy deflectors for each of their hot air vents. The only caution is to be sure the blower system is not overloaded and for this one can check with their heater serviceman.

The next simplest, easiest, and cheapest is to invest in fan forced portable electric heaters. The economy of purchase, installation and operation and the convenience of portability go a long way toward making up for the cost of electricity. The cautions obviously are to be sure your electric outlets will supply 1500 watts safely. Use no more than one heater per outlet. Be sure no fire hazards exist, and be sure that local regulations are met. The method does have its adherents.

For homes using steam, hot water, or electric baseboard heaters the idea is simple. Have an electric fan blow air across, along, or through the heater when the heat comes on. The way to do it is not simple. Placing a fan at each heater is no problem. What is a problem is how to have the fan run when, and only when, the heater is on. Two methods best duplicate the advantages of fan forced portable electric heaters. One uses fan forced propane or natural gas heaters which are permanently installed along one or more walls of each room. The other method is to use electric fan forced heaters installed in or on room walls. The only change is to swap the practicality of fixed installation for the convenience of portable heaters.

Propane or natural gas fan forced heaters have the advantages of piping in for combustion air from outside and piping the spent gases back to the outside. This eliminates outside air mixing with inside air and cooling it. It eliminates the need for a chimney and the chimney’s construction and maintenance costs. Their drawback is that their purchase and installation costs are not cheap.

Electric fan forced wall heaters are most similar to fan forced electric portable heaters. Their purchase costs are low and their installation costs are, too. The particular economy of fan forced electric heat far outways the cost of electricity as a heat source.

Simply Put

A. Fan forced heat is the most direct heat distribution system.

B. Fan forced heat has the most positive “on” control with minimal delay in starting. In the case of electrical heat there is no significant overshooting when the thermostat calls for shut off.

Because of A. and B. above there is no need to heat rooms not in use for it takes only minutes to make a room comfortable. The significance of the economy and the comfort of fan forced heat outweighs all other ways for distributing heat.

Addendum

Radiant heat has the particular advantage of warm floors but it is not a distribution system where time is important for starting - or where overheating can be stopped quickly. The amount of flooring controls these things and economy of operation can be diminished. Conduction of heat through floors and air is a limiting factor and with any significant temperature rise in a floor the heat loss to the ceiling by true radiation can become a factor.

Plans for any new heating system should have as a priority careful attention to the amount of insulation planned for or in place already. If there is any question of what to do first, always insulate first and then install an appropriately sized heating system.

With sufficient insulation in the walls, modem windows of modest size, and the distribution of heat by fan forced heaters there should be little concern about the former practice of having heaters placed along outer walls to limit cold drafts from these walls. This is not to say that window insulation would not be advantageous.

Warm Up Complete - Heating Systems in Old Houses

Warm Up Complete
by Mary Ellen Polson
Old House Interiors, Jan. Feb. 2008. Pp. 36-38.

Heating an old house is a balancing act. May early homes were built without any type of central heating system (unless you count central chimney) and other are faced with aging, sometimes inefficient systems.

Unless you are planning to gut the house, you probably have to work with what you have: existing steam or hydronic radiators powered by a broiler, or forced air ducts fueled by a furnace. Even if you don’t intend to rip out the floor, there are ways to incorporate new technology that will make your system more efficient, but more comfortable to live with.

Homeowners have long supplemented central heating systems with wood- or gas-burning fireplaces, stoves and inserts. These often efficient units can boost warmth in a gathering room or even heat a small house at prices that make sense to most homeowners (see “Warmth for Winter,” December 2007, pp. 86-90). But there are plenty of other choices that can resolve certain dilemmas or boost comfort in traditionally chilly spots like entries, porches and bathrooms.

Got a steam or hot water system with balky radiators? No need to throw out the boiler with the bath water when you replace the most troublesome with new ones. Choices include almost silent baseboard units that melt into the wall, flat-fins units that tuck under windows, or streamlined tubular radiators that resemble the originals you may already have, like the ones from Steam Radiators Runtal North America even offers flat-fin units that can curve underneath a bowfront window!

Another option for bump-out windows or large expanses of glass is a narrow radiant register that recesses into the floor. Reggio Registers offers a stylish version that measures 8 feet long by 8 inches wide. The unit draws in cold air, warms it with a hydronic heating element, then re-circulates the warmed air. Kitchens built at the perimeter (like porch conversions) can benefit from the installation of kick-plate registers that direct warmth to your feet, like those from HeatRegisters.com and I.A.P. Sales.

Radiators that work fine but look homely can get a cosmetic makeover with the addition of a radiator cover. The metal ones, like those from Beautiful Radiators or (for baseboard units) Radiant Wraps, often feature traditional grille patterns familiar from the early 29th century. These units can help direct heat away from walls and windows out into the room. If you have a forced hot air system, give vents and returns a more polished look with registers grilles in patterns and materials that are more in keeping with date of the house, like those from Acorn Manufacturing and others.

Remodeling a bath, kitchen or mudroom is a great time to lay down a new radiant floor. Hannel Radiant Direct offers full radiant heating packages from state-of-the-art boilers to PEX tubing and thermostats – good news for homeowners who want the efficiency of an entirely new system, Electric radiant systems are so easy to install that they go down in an afternoon and link to the existing electrical box with a thermostat to control the setting. They even go outdoors: low-voltage electric radiant systems like those from Heatizon can de-ice roofs and melt ice and snow on driveways and walks.

What System Works Best For You?
Forced Air
Pros: Ducts can be used for both heating and cooling.
Cons: Inefficient for heat delivery (especially with heat pumps), Hot and Cold spots; variations in temperature, Retrofitting on installing a new system can cost thousands.
Works Best For: Regions with more cooling days than heating days.
Comfort/Cost Savings Alternatives: Distribute warmed air more efficiently with a ceiling fan, Supplement with radiant floors, wood stoves or inserts, Systems with built-in humidifiers.

Steam/Hot Water
Pros: Efficient, comfortable whole house heating.
Cons: Does not address cooling needs, Older radiators can be balky or noisy.
Works Best For: Colder climates with many heating days.
Comfort/Cost Savings Alternatives: Retrofit noisy, balky, or broken radiators with almost silent new ones (at about $500 each), Disguise ugly radiator with covers.

Heating Stoves/Inserts
Pros: Easy to install (except masonry stoves), a quality stove costs $25 or less, Highly fuel efficient, Masonry and catalytics capable of whole-house heating, Passive cooling in warm months (masonry stoves).
Cons: Effectiveness diminishes in relation to distance from heat source, Wood and masonry stoves require regular feeding and maintenance, Masonry stoves best suited for new construction or major remodels.
Works Best For: Smaller homes, As supplement to whole-house heating, especially forced air.
Comfort/Cost Savings Alternatives: Humidifiers, Distribute warm air more efficiently with ceiling fans.

Heating Stoves/Inserts
Pros: Easy to install (except masonry stoves), a quality stove costs $25 or less, Highly fuel efficient, Masonry and catalytics capable of whole-house heating, Passive cooling in warm months (masonry stoves).
Cons: Effectiveness diminishes in relation to distance from heat source, Wood and masonry stoves require regular feeding and maintenance, Masonry stoves best suited for new construction or major remodels.
Works Best For: Smaller homes, As supplement to whole-house heating, especially forced air.
Comfort/Cost Savings Alternatives: Humidifiers, Distribute warm air more efficiently with ceiling fans.

Radiant (floor, wall, etc.)
Pros: Even, cost-effective heating ($8-12 square foot installed), Cost effective in retrofits (i.e. replacing old wall radiators with new), Spot applications (baths, mudrooms, etc), new construction (additions, whole house remodels).
Cons: Requires hot water for team boiler except spot (electric) units, As whole-house heating ca be expensive and difficult to install in houses without existing radiators, Does not address cooling needs.
Works Best For: Homes in cooler climates; new homes and homes being extensively remodeled; retrofits with existing hot water systems, spot heating.
Comfort/Cost Savings Alternatives: Use as spot-comfort zones where possible (wall and floor radiators).

Heating Things Up

Hannel Radiant Direct: 1-888-298-6036
Heatizon Systems: 1-888-239-1232
I.A.P. Sales: 1-800-416-1298
Myson: 1-800-698-9690
Radiant Floor Co.: 1-866-927-6863
Reggio Registers: 1-800-88-3090
Rinnai: 1-866-RINNAI
Runtal North America: 1-800-526-2621
Steam Radiators: 1-800-966-587
Weil McLain: 1-219-876-6561
Windy Ridge Group/VEHA: 1-800-639-2021
Viega: 1-877-843-4262
Radiators Covers and Registers
Acorn Manufacturing: 1-800-835-0121
Arsco/Beautiful Radiators: 1-800-543-7040
HeatRegisters.com: 1-509-535-5098
Mission Woodworking: 1-877-848-5697
Radiant Wraps: 973-857-6480
Reggio Registers: 1-800-880-3090
Wooden Radiator Cabinet Company: 1-800-817-9110

The Line on Liners: Chimney Liners - All You Need to Know

Metal Chimney Liners
Micheal Chotiner Old-House Journal November/December 2007 pg. 41

Most old-house owners savor the warmth of fireplaces or heating stoves, so they know it’s important to routinely inspect and clean a working masonry chimney. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends that chimneys burning solid fuel-wood, coal, or pellets-be inspected yearly and cleaned as often as needed. Such upkeep helps to ensure structural integrity, identify defects that might allow deadly combustion gases to vent into living spaces, and prevent chimney fires caused by the buildup of creosote, a natural byproduct of burning wood.

However, few homeowners who use their chimneys merely to vent gas or oil-fired furnaces and boilers are aware that maintenance and sound conditions apply to them, too. That’s a problem because the byproducts of burning gas and oil are just as insidious as those from solid fuels. Chimneys-or more specifically, the flues within them-must be clean and sound to carry heat and gases safely up and away from the chimney d top, but these combustion byproducts can also deteriorate a flue’s inner surface over time. So let’s say that you get your chimney inspected, and let’s say that the report recommends that your flue d needs to be relined. We’ll explore what that means, as well as the best way to go about correcting the problem for your particular chimney and house.

The Line on Liners
Among the best reasons for relining a masonry chimney is that it wasn’t built right in the first place-that is, without a flue liner, a material that provides a smooth, relatively seamless surface as well as insulation. Historically, well-built chimneys were parged with mortar to line the flue, and clay tiles have been standard liners since the 1900s. Nonetheless, linerless chimneys remain very common in old houses as well as newer ones. Builders and heating equipment installers don’t always keep up with recommended practices, and even if they do, they may not take the trouble to observe them. If your chimney does have a liner, another reason you may need to reline is because it is defective. Age and use can open cracks in tiles, and combustion gases combined with rain will erode parging and masonry joints between bricks or stones. If the preponderance of evidence points to relining, you’ve got some choices to consider. You can 1) reconstruct clay tile flues with new clay tile liners, 2) reinforce the chimney and create new flues with poured-cement liners, or 3) reline existing flues and run new ones with metal flue liners. Each method has its benefits, limitations, and challenges. The approach you ultimately choose should be the one that’s best suited to the problems of the particular chimney and the appliances vented through it.

1. Clay Flue tiles are rectangualr or round cermic units 24″ - tall that are stacked with mortared joints to make a liner. 2. While highly durable, tiles can crack due to age or damage and their weight and rigidity make them complicated to retrofit.

Clay Tile Liners Clay tile flues are the traditional favorite. Flue tiles are virtually impervious to the heat and corrosive byproducts of burning any and all fuels. With refractory mortar joints properly finished, a clay tile flue’s service life can be projected at 50 years or more with very little Flue tiles can be square, maintenance other than regular cleaning. But square and rectangular flue tiles are not the most efficient shape for venting smoke. By nature, smoke spirals upward through a flue in a helical pattern, leaving incongruous air spaces at the margins. At best, these air spaces simply take up extra room within the chimney that may be needed for additional flues; at worst, they reduce draft. Round flues are much more efficient.

Clay liner tiles are relatively inexpensive-about $10 for a typical 24″ -tall unit. But what you save on materials will most likely exceed the cost of installation labor. Clay flue liners are hard to retrofit in an existing chimney, especially if it isn’t straight. Even for a straight run, it’s necessary to break through chimney walls every few vertical feet to gain access for removing the old flue tile and laying up the new tile. For chimneys with offsets (bends), flue tiles need to be cut at precise angles for acceptable joints. In some areas, it’s difficult to find anyone who has the skills for this kind of installation, and it’s definitely not an owner-restorer job.

A Clay Tile Alternative If careful inspection of a clay flue liner indicates that the mortar joints have gaps but the tiles themselves are more or less intact and in alignment, you may wish to consider a relatively new approach. Through a network of local contractors, Firesafe Industries (www.firesafeinc.com) offers a product called FireGuard and an application method for refilling defective joints, and patching and smoothing existing clay flues. FireGuard is a ceramic sealant said to have a service temperature of up to 3,200 degrees F. When applying FireGuard, technicians first thoroughly clean the flue, then lower an applicato (which looks something like a rocket nosecone congruent in size and shape to the inside of the flue) using a cable from the top of the chimney. FireGuard of a mud-like consistency is pumped into the chimney, and the vibrating applicator is slowly drawn upward, forcing the sealant into gaps at the joints and defects in the liner. The promise of the FireGuard system is that it effectively reseals clay flue liners with a fraction of the labor for replacement. The process doesn’t appreciably reduce the size of the flue, which means that any fireplace or stove that it serves should show no changes in performance.

Cast-in-Place Liners Where new clay tiles are not an option, it’s possible to create a new flue within a damaged masonry chimney by using one of several poured-cement processes. Generally speaking, this approach offers all the advantages of clay flues, plus a couple more. Cast-in-place flues are virtually impervious to the harmful effects of heat, acids, and condensation, regardless of the type of fuel that is burned. Temperatures inside cast-in-place flues are generally high because of their insulation properties, so they bum cleaner and reduce creosote accumulation. Expect poured-cement flues to last at least as long as clay tile-50 years or more. Some companies claim that cast-in-place flues can stabilize unsOlmd clay flues and chimneys, since they’re poured inside either the ex~sting flue or the chimney walls.

While a cast-in-place process can be less laborious and invasive than reconstructing clay flues, there are a number of different proprietary metbods for casting. In some projects, the cost of labor required can equal or exceed that for relining with clay tile. As always, the best approach depends on conditions specific to th.e particular job. In no case is casting flue liner in place a do-it-yourself job. The materials and equipment for casting flues in place are supplied by a number of different manufacturers to distributor/technicians who perform the installations.

If the problem chimney has one or more clay flues within it, the installer will determine whether the tile can be left in place or needs to be removed. Determining factors include the structural condition of the existing flue and chimney, and how much space is needed based on the size and number of flues required.

In the first of the two prevalent flue-casting methods-market.ed variously under the brand names Golden Flue (www. goldenflue.com), SolidfFlue Chimney Systems (www.solidflue. com) and Supaflu Chimney Systems (www.supaflu.com)-relining starts with a preparatory flue cleaning. Then, technicians insert one or more inflat.able bladders from the heating appliance outlet to the top of the chimney. Next, they install formwork at the base of the chimney and place spacers around the bladders to separate them from chimney. At this point, they pump a mudlike mixture of lightweight refractory cement. and insulating aggregate is into the chimney until it fills to the chimney top (see drawing at left). Once the cement hardens, the bladders are deflated, the form work is removed, and any necessary finish work is performed. The result: one or more structurally rigid, smooth, continuous, amply insulated flues.

In a second flue-casting method-marketed under the brand names Ahrens Chimney Systems (www.ahrenschimney.com) and Guardian Chimney Systems (guardianinc.com)-technicians slowly pump mud-consistency lining mat.erial into the chimney as they draw a vibrating bell (a pointy fonning tool) up through the cement to form the flue opening. In the Ahrens method, there’s a second step where the technician sprays a slurry topcoat onto the flue channel to provide a smoother, non-absorbent urface said to increase draft and facilitate cleaning. Both casting methods have been used in Europe for more than 70 years, and in the U.S. for more than 30.

1. Cast-in-place liners are proprietary processes that pump mortar within the chimney to form a new flue. One method, illustrated here, employs an inflatable bladder to form the flue.
2. Instead of a bladder, an alternate cast-in-place process draws a pointed bell up the chimney to form the flue.

1. Stainless steel flue liners come in rigid and flexible forms and a variety of designs and alloys, making them among the most versatile liers. 2. One of the advantages of flexible metal liners is their ability to accommodate offsets and other old flue surprises. Flexible Liners Stainless Steel Flue Liners Alloy Selection Guide by Fuel Type Fuel Type Recommended Alloy Coal 316L or T1 Gas AL29-4C Oil 316L or T1 Wood AL29-4C

Pragmatists, including many installers and fire-protection specialists were consulted, tend to like stainless steel flue liners. They generally require less labor to install than other types of liners, and they’re readily available in types and sizes for all common heating appliances, including fireplaces and wood stoves. Installed by a pro, a metal liner costs about $100 per foot. The trouble for old-house restorers is that there are so many different metal flue types and sizes that can be hard to sort out which is best for a given application. The good news is that commonly used flue liners are available in kits, complete with insulation wraps and fittings to hook up to fireplaces, stoves, furnaces, and broilers. Stainless steel flue liners come in rigid and flexible formats. Rigid flue pipes are available in diameters ranging from three inches to ten inches, while flexible corrugated metal tube runs from two inch to ten inch in diameter. Rigid flue liners shouldn’t be confused with double- or triple-wall chimney pipe, which is designed unenclosed chimneys and shouldn’t be used as flue liner. Rigid liners are best for straight chimneys with no offset or bends. There is some discussion about whether rigid flue liners are easier to clean than flexible liners, which have a corrugated surface. Our most trusted expert says that flexible liners tend to collect less creosote when used to vent wood fireplaces and stoves because they flex as they expand and contract with temperature fluctuations, causing buildups to loosen and fall away.

For venting a fireplace, choose the diameter that provides a vent opening equal to one-eighth of the total area of the fireplace opening. For wood stoves and other heating appliances, consult the manufacturer’s recommendation for flue diameter. The trickiest aspect of selecting an appropriate stainless steel liner is choosing the correct alloy based on the type of fuel being burned. Careful selection prevents corrosion, which is the main cause of premature failure in stainless steel liners. It is also good practice to insulate metal flues with wraps or jackets designed specifically for the purpose. Insulation is particularly important around vents for high-efficiency heaters and stoves, since their flue temperatures are lower than conventional models. Insulation not only helps maintain higher temperatures within the flue to reduce corrosive condensation, but it also prevents heat transfer from flue pipes to the home’s structure - an added measure of safety, which is what flue liners are all about in the first place. Michael Chotiner is the author of Building Crafts and a longtime writer and editor on the building construction industry.

Top Twenty Reason for Relinings Chimneys
Sympton/Condition	Notes
Exisiting Chimney/All Flue Types
Chimney appears to be collapsing	Where deterioration is visible from the outside, deterioration on the inside is likely.
Chimney contains no flue liner	Not ucommon for chimneys built prior to 1906.
Creosote staining/accumulation on chimey walls or between existing line and chimey walls	Iniciation that existing flue is leaking.
Recent fire	Exposure to excessively high temperature can damage all types of flues.
Recent lightning strike	Same as above.
Inadequate clearance between chimey/flue liner and combustible materials	In old houses, framing was sometimes attached to chimneys.
Smoke from fireplace or stove wafts into living space	May be caused by incorrecct flue size.
Sooty or oily deposits collect in living space	Indicates inadequate draft.
More than one appliance vented with a single flue	Very common.
Flue sized incorrectly	Often a problem when an exisiting flue is converted for use with an appliance of a different fuel type of efficiency level.
Smoke alarm/carbon monoxide detectors trigger	Indicates inadequate drafy, leaky flue.
Home occupants suffer from frequent headaches	Indicates inadequate drafy, leaky flue.
An existing fuel-burning appliance served by the flue is replaced with a different model of type	Different applainces have different needs with respect to size and other features; check wtih appliance manufacturer for recommended flue specs.
A new fuel-burning applaince is added	Each appliance present should be vented through a seperate flue.
Clay Tile Flues
Gaps between flue tiles at mortar joints	Age and use can cause mortar joints to deteriorate, but this problem is most often caused in newer chimneys by failure to use refractory cement in flue tile joints.
Flue tiles misaligned	The inside of flue should be smooth with no spots for creosote and/or soot to accumulate.
Flue tiles cracked or spalling	Clay tile normally resists heat and corrosive byproducts in smoke, so if defects are present, something is wrong. Flue must be sound to contain heat and smoke.
Metal Flues
Creosote leaking out through joints	Indication of improper fastening, inadequate cleaning, or damaged caused by expansion and contraction.
Visible Corrosion	Evidence of improper alloy selection with respect to fuel type and/or flue operating at a too-low temperature.
Appliance changed from conventional to high-efficiency model	High-efficiency appliances produce lower flue temperatures; flue size may need to be reduced and insulation improved to prevent condensation, corrosion.

Gold Medal Glenwood Gas/Wood Combination Range

A wonderful new range, so named to commemorate the bestowal upon all Glenwoods of the Gold Medal Award at both the San Francisco and San Diego Expositions - 1915.

Weir Stove Company,
Taunton, MA

Makers of the Celebrated Glenwood Ranges for Coal, Wood or Gas, Heating Stoves and Furnaces.

The Gold Medal Glenwood is a new, distinct type of combination range, in fact, two complete modern ranges using different fuels, skillfully built into one compact stove for greater convenience.

There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as the gas section is as entirely seperate from the coal section as if placed in another part of the kitchen.

Although it is less than four feet long, it can do every kind of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in warm weather, by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating and by a combination of the two in emergencies.

The coal section burns either hard or soft coal, coke or wood, and the gas section either manufactured or natural gas.

Cast Iron is used wholly in the construction of the coal section, as this the most durablt material known for a coal rage.

The Gas Section oves are made of White Aluminized Sheets. This metal is highly desirable for a gas range as it heats quickly, is rust resisting and keeps the kitchen cook in summer.

The Gas Broler Oven, above at the right, is the same length as the gas baking oven - eighteen inches wide, sixteen inches deep and twelve inches high. It is fitted with a cast iron shelf adjustable to any height, and a jointless sanitary drip pan containing a neat, wire rack.

The Broiler Burner is rectangular in shape with six arms each with two lines of flame. It has one hundred and fifty squares inches of direct heating surface and is removable.

The Gas Baking and Broiling Ovens are lined with white rust-resisting aluminized sheet, that do not chip off, but keep smooth and last with the rest of the rage.

The Heat is under complete control and can be regulated by means or burner cocks at the side.

The Back above the cooking top is protected by white enameled splashers, easily kept spotless, and the gas broiler door is panneled with the same material.

The Capacity of a range is an important consideration when buying. Many combination ranges have one rather small baking oven. A feature of the Gold Medal Glenwood is two very room baking ovens as shown in these pictures.

Pastry Baking is being done in the gas oven, where it is progress is always in sight. The most delicate cake can be perfectly baked and watched through glass paneled door.

The Heat in the gas oven is so uniform that two shelves are provided, and two batches of bread or pastry can be baked at one time.

A Large Roast and other baking can be done at the same time in the coal oven. Thhe advantage is plain - two ovens give double capacity, and allow the cook to complete the baking in one-half the usual time.

Just see the cooking surface at hand if want to rush things.

By using both the coal and the gas sections of the top, nine large cookin guntensils may be quickly heated at the same time, or the coal section may be used for boiling and the gas section with burners turned low may be used for simmering or keeping warm the dishes already cooked.

A Push Button Lighter for lighting all cooking burners is can be furnished at slight additional cost.

The Oven Burners are the one-piece type, easily removed for cleaning and cannot be put back wrong. The end of each burner is machine faced ad carefully fitted with a steel air shutter, which can be accurately adjusted to give the proper combustion.

The Tight Joints and tight-fitting doors of the gas section are an important feature, as less gas is needed than in ordinary ranges.

The Glenwood oscillating shelf under the coal oven door is a great convenience when basting meats or removing food as it is ingeniously arranged to move up exactly level with the bottom of the oven when the door is opened. The Swing Oven Door is acknowledged the most satisfactory in preserving heat and in baking.

The Glenwood Swing Door is always tight when closed, no springs to get out of order, and allow door to become loose and waste heat.

The Lower Oven is roomy and can be heated by either wood or coal. It is fitted with an adjustable shelf, and will bake evenly its full capacity at one time.

The Nickel Edge Band is not bolted but held by a patent spring latch which one finger will unsnap when it is to be taken off. This feature will be appreciated when it is necessary to clean the range.

All Gas Cocks have adjustable orafices, allowing just the right amount of gas ro be supplied to burners for perfect combustion.

The Glenwood Pedal Oven Door Opener unlatches and opens the door by a slight pressure of the foot with both hands are occupied.

The Grate can be drawn out from beneath the firbox linings without their being disturbed. so that a new grate can be replaced and still keep in use the odl linings.

The Sectional Top over the Coal Section prevents warping and is so planned that by changing the cross-shaped castings that hold the covers a wash boiler may be placed at the back of the range, leaving the fron two holes free for cooking.

At a glance the Glenwood Patent Indicator on the oven door tells the degree of heat required for boiling, baking pies, plain or sponge cake, bread and biscuits and the indicator point registers the degree of heat already in the oven. It is so plain and simple you just can’t make a mistake.

Any one of the three different Coal Grates may be used in this range according to the choice of the purchaser. Firebox linings made of fire clay are recommended for burning hard coal; and east iron linings for soft coal. When burning wood only, the Glenwood Wood Grate, with cast iron side linings to match, increases the fuel space and is most efficient.

The Fuel Recommended is a good grade of hard coal, in either nut or stove size. The better grades of soft coal, however, may be used with good results.

This Range is Most Attractie looking and its appearance of efficiency is fully sustained by its performance.

Coal Range Flues ahould not be allowed to fill with ashed and soot, as no ranges can do good work if the flue spaces are obstructed.

Doors of easy access have been provided in the Gold Medal Glenwood Range for properly cleaning all flues. See plate A and B in diagram below.

Instructions for Cleaning Flue Spaces

• To Clean the Top Oven Flue
  Remove the four lids in coal range top and scrape all ashes on oven top directly into fire box as indicated by arrow number one.
• To Clean Oven Side Flue
  Remove Plate A located beneath pan under gas cooking burners and scrape all ashes to bottom as indicated by arrow number two.
• To Clean Oven Bottom Flues
  Remove Plate B under shelf below oven door and scrape all ashed out through opening B into a pan placed on kitchen floor. Arrows number three and four indicate direction to scrape. Be careful to replace plates A and B securely.

A Glenwood in pearl gray porcelain enamel adds a new charm to cooking. No more soiled hands, no more dust and smut.

Picture and Comfort of being able to clean you range perfectly in less than two minutes.

Polishing the stove, once one of the most hated task in household work is now the easiet, - simply wipe a Glenwood with a damp cloth and in no time you have a sparkling clean surface.

Resolve never to polish the old stove until you see the Glenwood dealer about a new pearl grey porcelain enameled Gold Medal Glenwood - the range that “Makes Cooking Easy”.

Get to Know the Antique Parlor Stove Better!

Facets & Features of the Parlor Stove Loading, Cleaning and Controlling the Parlor Stove
	LOADING The parlor stove is a great of heating stoves and can warm anywhere from 2-6 rooms. It has a large loading area on the side where a built-in smoke shelf prevents smoke from rolling out as the stove is loaded. The stove can comfortably hold a 16-24″ stick of wood. The wood is placed on top of a grate inside of the stove. The fire can burn an average of 8-12 hours. The length of stick and burn time, and the amount of rooms warmed, will depend on the size of the cylinder stove.
	DRAFT CONTROLS Parlor stoves have both primary draft controls located in the front of the stove below the front door. When starting the fire, open up the primary controls. This allows for the air to come in directly under the grate causing the fire to ignite and burn from the bottom up. Once the fire is well established, adjust the primary controls as needed to regulate the fire.
	CLEAN OUT Cleaning out the stove is very convenient with a cylinder stove. Every parlor stoves come with a handy ash pan that sits directly under the grates inside the stove. To clean out the ashes simply remove the ash pan and dump the ashes in a safe location. Please use caution when discarding the ashes so to prevent starting a fire in any other location other than inside your cylinder stove. The ash pan allows you to clean out your stove even when the fire is still burning. And the good news for folks who don’t like to dust, the ash pan keeps the fly ash to a minimum.
	COOK LID All parlor stoves have at least one cook lid located beneath the dome at the top of the stove. Most of the lids are about 8 inches in diameter. The cook lid is ideal for holding a pot of water that acts as a humidifier. And it is a wonderful location to warm a pot of tea. So while the tea’s steeping, lets pull up a chair and enjoy the cuddly warmth from the stove with a cup of wild berry zinger herbal tea.

Franklin Fireplace Stove - An Ingenious Invention

Ben Franklin’s Ingenious Stove

Circa 1744 No More Coughs or Fevers

Among the educated and enlightened men of 18th-century America, none was more influential or gifted than Benjamin Franklin. He had few peers who could match his intellect and versatility as author, scientist, inventor, printer, philosopher, and popular moralizer. Being essentially a provincial American, Franklin’s mind turned on practical matters, including the problem of how to heat a room evenly and inexpensively. From these musings came his remarkable Franklin Stoves, the first of which were manufactured in 1744 by Franklin’s friend Robert Grace.They were originally called “Pennsylvania Fire-Places,” and Franklin himself wrote the first advertisement to publicize the stove, in which he claimed, “If you sit near the Fire, you have not that cold Draught of uncomfortable Air nipping your Back and Heels, as when before common Fires…being scorcht before, and, as it were, froze behind.” Franklin’s stove was essentially a free-standing iron fireplace. It contained an air box below the hearth into which fresh, cold air was drawn by the heat of the fire over the box. Behind the fire stood an air column - actually an extension of the air box - the whole unit being L-shaped. At the top of the air column, the fresh air, now warmed by the fire, was allowed to escape back into the room; but the smoke was forced over, around, down, then up and out through the chimney. In short, the fire heated a separate volume of air from that which was mixed with smoke from the fire - an ingenious recycling system that constantly forced warm air down from above and back into the room where it was needed. According to Franklin, this method was healthier than warm air produced by common fireplaces “by which many catch cold, whence proceed Coughs, Catarrhs, Toothache, Fevers, Pleurisies, and many other Diseases.” Franklin also claimed his product was more efficient than other stoves and fireplaces because it burned less wood, a great advantage indeed for those who lived where wood was in short supply. Since Franklin lived in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, not far from one of the world’s great coal regions, one can only be amused by his statement in 1744 that, by the use of his Pennsylvania Fire-Place, ” . . . our Wood may grow as fast as we consume it, and our Posterity may warm themselves at a moderate Rate, without being oblig’d to fetch their Fuel over the Atlantick…”